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May 03, 2024
 

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OSAKA RESTAURANTS

Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Jun 24, 2014
Baan Suki: Relishing the spice of Thai cuisine
One of the most memorable, cheapest and spiciest dishes I've ever had was also the first bite I ate in Thailand. It was a few years back, on an island south of Bangkok. We had just arrived at our hotel and bolted to the beach. A cook had a cart set up (it was more or less a wok) on the sand and the aroma was more distracting than the myriad bodies dumped beside the sea. I had a papaya salad. It nearly blew my head off, but man alive, what a welcome to Thailand.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Jun 24, 2014
City Bakery: A taste of New York at Grand Front Osaka, but only just
At City Bakery in Osaka (and also in Tokyo), there's an eclectic mix of what you would expect from an New York bakery (brownies and chocolate-chip cookies) as well as items you may not expect (pretzel croissants and blueberry corn muffins) and a few that don't meet expectations — namely the scones.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
May 27, 2014
Que Rico: Bless this tasty Mexican mess
In the spirit of creating fashionable statements that promptly wither out of mode ("Orange is the new black," "Spring is the new summer"), here's one for the list: In Osaka, "Tenma is the new Fukushima." The two areas have much in common: Both fan out in warrens and lanes beneath the city's elevated Loop Line, with Umeda Station as a midpoint ensuring a constant supply of the hungry, thirsty and weary; both embody the quintessential Osaka eat-till-you-drop spirit of kuidaore (among salarymen, anyway); and both are home to Que Rico, a popular Mexican hole-in-the-wall eatery.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
May 27, 2014
Shiogensui: Ramen worth its salt
The shinkansen isn't the only thing connecting Okayama to Osaka these days. You can add shio (salt) ramen to that list. I had my first bowl of Shiogensui ramen in Soja, Okayama Prefecture. It's also where I had my second bowl, on another occasion, before I finally made my way to the source, the original Shiogensui store, not far from Shin Osaka Station.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Apr 22, 2014
Gohanya Isshin: a diverse menu topped by fries that wax poetic
Isshin is deceptively big, dimly lit and madly busy; but the staff are on their game. More impressive is that the kitchen produces such high-quality fare in such a demanding work environment.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Apr 22, 2014
Cafe Ibaraki Yu: Former bathhouse offers a bite of the old days
The city of Ibaraki in the north of Osaka is home to Tadao Ando's Church of the Light, a modernist concrete masterpiece. Out of the spotlight, another architect in Ibaraki has been quietly but busily breathing life into buildings whose glory days would otherwise be behind them. Cafe Ibaraki Yu might well be the finest example.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Mar 25, 2014
La Tepparnya: Izakaya fare with a European twist
A few years back I spent an insufferable summer in an insufferable apartment (in a room as big as a shoebox), which I would rather forget than remember, in Juso, which is just beside the Yodo River in Osaka. Luckily, I found La Tepparnya, an izakaya that became my surrogate home. With good timing, I returned after a long absence to find it celebrating its six-year anniversary.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Mar 25, 2014
Sumo Cha-ya Terao: Spirit of sumo in every bowl
Chankonabe is wedded to sumo in the same way as whiskey is to the Wild West and cowboys; they're both fuel for fightin'. Terao Tsunefumi, the man behind this eponymous restaurant, is a well-respected sumo wrestler who had a career in the ring spanning 20 years, long by any measure in sports. For his second act he opened a pair of nabe (hot pot) restaurants, one each in Tokyo and Osaka.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Feb 25, 2014
Hanakujira: Steamy scenes from the oden pot
Hanakujira is an all-society restaurant. At 5 o'clock on a Monday evening, the air still frigid with cold shock after a recent snowstorm, Osaka's great and ordinary are packed inside (and queuing outside) to get close to the steaming vats of oden. There are families with young ones, friends, office ladies, grandparents, college kids, dating couples and the ubiquitous coterie of salarymen. When my companion and I show up there are only two seats, or stools, unoccupied, close to the door at the end of the counter — but at this oden institution, the counter is where you want to be, especially if you are a first timer.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Feb 25, 2014
Sobakiri Karani: The noodle shop you wouldn't suspect
The only clue that this is a soba shop is from the inscription on the noren curtain, but even that I didn't notice until leaving. That's not to say while passing by you don't slow down and look inside in wonder. I had pegged it as a hipster joint; there was an expensive fixed-wheel bicycle chained up outside. The big shop windows reveal a collection of Japanese art and crafts, a few huge bereft tables. It looks like it might be a gallery, but is undecided. It's a curious sight, but not particularly inviting. Don't be put off. Go in. This is a place to write home about.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Jan 21, 2014
Curry the Irish way (it's full of Guinness)
Almost 20 years ago there appeared on The New York Times best-seller list a book titled 'How the Irish Saved Civilization.' To most Irish people this benign feat was not news.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Jan 21, 2014
At Ikkaku, it's fine to ask a chicken its age
Ikkaku is located in a 12-story building with more bars and restaurants than I imagine there are in most towns in West Texas or West Cork. And the building is in Shinsaibashi, which probably has more places to eat and drink than all of Wyoming. This is, after all, Osaka, the city that celebrates over-indulgence with the maxim kuidaore, literally to collapse from overeating.
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