The establishments around Matsumoto Eiraku in Osaka's Kitashinchi neighborhood have names like La Madonna, Salon de Miyu, Lady Hawk and Blanc de Blanc. This may suggest the restaurant keeps ostentatious company, but you should never judge a building by its marble colonnades; the aesthetic inside is austere and minimalist, and the atmosphere hushed. There are several private dining rooms that are hidden from sight, but the best seats are at the counter — a gorgeous piece of unvarnished timber.