Tag - kappo

 
 

KAPPO

Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 18, 2016
erba da nakahigashi: Modern Italian with deep Japanese roots
Arriving at erba da nakahigashi, you might think you have stumbled across a plush, exclusive Japanese restaurant, rather than one serving Italian cuisine. The walls leading down to the basement premises are finished in lacquer and the dining room has no tables, just a compact open kitchen with a wooden counter. There are only eight seats, each set with chopsticks.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / OSAKA RESTAURANTS
Jun 24, 2016
Kakomi: the hushed, abstract art of 'kaiseki'
I have worked in my fair share of kitchens over the years. At some stage while toiling at each, someone — usually a chef — would lose their temper with me and regain it only after loudly roasting me with words not fit for a newspaper. I thought of these episodes while sitting at the counter of Kakomi and observing chef and owner Kazuki Kakoiyama and his small team of chefs and waiting staff.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Jan 15, 2016
Rikichi: Bowling and the art of traditional Japanese kaiseki
In 2000, Harvard political scientist Robert D. Putnam wrote "Bowling Alone," a book about the decline of community and rise of individualism in the U.S. I thought about the title of that book over lunch at Rikichi — indeed there was plenty of room for thinking. Not only was I the only diner, but chef and owner Shuichi Hiraoka was working by himself. It's how he prefers things in his little kappo (counter-style restaurant), tucked away in the back alleys of Gion.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Dec 11, 2015
Sakuya: One of the old capital's best traditional lunches
On a mundane street in northern Kyoto is an excellent soba restaurant called Nicolas. Farther down the road, tucked under a nondescript apartment block, is Sakuya, a kappo (counter-style restaurant), which serves a variety of traditional Japanese food. There is no menu to speak of, but I wouldn't be surprised if soba made an occasional appearance here. Chef Gunji Komura serves whatever happens to be in season or in his kitchen.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / KYOTO RESTAURANTS
Feb 10, 2015
Nothing drawn out about Kappo Yamashita
This might be the year of kappo dining for me. Recently, I have often found myself seated at sparse counters opposite small teams of industrious chefs, synchronized by their movements: cutting, peeling, grating, stirring, broiling, searing, tasting and fielding questions from patrons.

Longform

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