On a mundane street in northern Kyoto is an excellent soba restaurant called Nicolas. Farther down the road, tucked under a nondescript apartment block, is Sakuya, a kappo (counter-style restaurant), which serves a variety of traditional Japanese food. There is no menu to speak of, but I wouldn't be surprised if soba made an occasional appearance here. Chef Gunji Komura serves whatever happens to be in season or in his kitchen.

While Nicolas is a little ostentatious and takes itself rather seriously (it is named after a Russian landscape painter), Sakuya is plain and austere. As with many kappo restaurants, decorations are few and far between — there are no scrolls, paintings or posters to distract you from your meal. Sakuya has, however, developed a successful way of marketing itself: it offers one of the best lunches you'll get in Kyoto and for under ¥1,000. The goal, I imagine, is that this affordable lunch will encourage diners to return for dinner when the menu is more varied and the prices are much higher.

Although Sakuya is open until 2 p.m., lunch may end prematurely if the food runs out. Lunch is omakase (chef's choice), and though some dishes may not suit all palates, nothing is too challenging. Sakuya is not out to shock — tradition is the guide here.