Shoehorned into a space that would be considered cramped even for a ramen shop -- you literally have to squeeze sideways to get to the back -- it can seat precisely 13 customers at the counter and four more at a shelf-like table wedged ...

The guy at the front, the head chef, is called Tara-chan (literally, "Codfish"). His second in command is Katsuo-chan ("Bonito"). Why have they adopted stage names? Because at GiroGiro, dinner is as much a performance as a culinary art. Make no mistake, though: The ...

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