Vector and Vector Beer Factory, which are almost neighbors, both serve exclusively Japanese craft beer at some of the lowest prices in Tokyo — only slightly offset by a ¥300 seating charge. The older of the two, Vector, has 10 taps.

Besides their excellent bakery, they have retail shelves stocked with dried pasta, olives, conserves and other delicacies, a huge array of Italian cheeses (sample their spicy Gorgonzola and swoon), as well as a hugely tempting selection of prosciutto and salami. They also sell plenty ...

Istanbul, in the nighttime back streets of Shinjuku-Sanchome, is the oldest and best established, slick and a little impersonal, its decor crammed with photos and exotic baubles, making it easily accessible to first-time visitors.

Bringing alcohol into the garden and drinking it there is prohibited. Using toys, sports equipment and the like is also prohibited in the garden.