Il Rifugio Hayama

At dinner, Watanabe offers a considerable a la carte menu that focuses strongly on fresh local seafood, sourced directly from the fishing port of Sajima just down the coast, as well as Hayama-gyu, a signature breed of beef reared in the nearby hills. He prepares it all with skill and flair, and a complexity to match most restaurants in the city. We are mightily impressed.