LONDON -- A recent trip to Libya showed that it remains a police state dominated by a personality cult. Col. Moammar Gadhafi's portrait was everywhere, and tourists were warned of severe penalties for criticizing the leadership.

A policemen rode on our bus, and it was inspected at frequent roadblocks even though tour buses are supposed to be exempt from such checks.

On the outskirts of Tripoli, we passed the fortified compound in which the colonel is said to reside. At one point our guide gave us a 10-minute lecture on the wonderful work of the regime.