"From now on it is each man for himself." Having said that, our colleague from UNICEF Iraq quietly locked our car's doors. We had just passed the final checkpoint between Kuwait and Iraq.

Once we crossed the border, I was surprised to see that there were no guards on the Iraqi side, only children hanging around, waving at cars and sometimes opening doors to grab a few things.

"Just remember there's no government in this country now," our Iraqi colleague told us.