Until October, the medieval castle on the hill above Mukacheve in Ukraine's westernmost region sported a statue of Hungary's national symbol, the mythical "turul" bird.

The statue has since been replaced with Ukraine's trident on the orders of the city's mayor, unsettling Transcarpathia's large Hungarian community and sparking protests from Budapest.

Closer to Budapest than Kyiv and part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until World War I, multi-ethnic Transcarpathia borders Poland, Slovakia, Hungary and Romania, and is home to over 100,000 Magyars — its biggest minority group.