A master distiller and a crop scientist who specializes in corn breeding are working on a project they hope one day will help bring local identities to American whiskeys.

Seth Murray, a top corn breeder at Texas A&M University, and Rob Arnold, working on a doctorate at the school while making whiskey for a Fort Worth distiller, are trying to develop commercially viable strains of corn with identifiable flavors, in the same way as specific grapes define the taste of wine from California's Napa Valley or a Bordeaux produced in southwest France.

If the project proves successful, it might not be until the middle of the next decade that it will produce a commercial whiskey. So far, Arnold and Murray have produced about 50 test products. In the next several months, they will plant thousands of nongenetically modified seeds on a commercial farm to ramp up production.