Nobuhiro Hashiba was aware that it was a thinly veiled test to see whether he would be a worthy boss or a mere business suit recently sent by a Japanese company.

Now director of Sapporo Breweries Ltd., Hashiba recalled when he was sent in summer 1987 to St. Clement Vineyards in Napa Valley, the heart of Northern California's wine country, to serve as general manager of the winery that Sapporo Breweries had just acquired.

In front of him were 12 bottles of cabernet sauvignon of the same vintage. Surrounding him were winery workers, waiting to hear what the lone Japanese would say in the tasting party.