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Kokubunji: Signs of the times on Tokyo's western front

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Jan 11, 2020

Kokubunji: Signs of the times on Tokyo's western front

by Kit Nagamura

Named for its temple, history and legend flow through Kokubunji.

A last triumph of autumn in rain-soaked Kokubunji

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Dec 7, 2019

A last triumph of autumn in rain-soaked Kokubunji

by Kit Nagamura

A dreary drizzle of rain falls on the November day I've set aside for walking out along the Kokubunji gaisen (cliff line) in western Tokyo. Despite the weather, my hope is to catch some late autumn colors, so I yank on my trusty rubber ...

Good, clean dining in the alleyways of Shiba

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Oct 4, 2019

Good, clean dining in the alleyways of Shiba

by Kit Nagamura

Minutes from Tamachi Station, the area of Shiba, is a maze of weathered watering holes, chain restaurants, karaoke joints and gritty izakaya (Japanese pubs), like an east Tokyo version of Shinjuku's Golden Gai.

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The little curiosities of Monzen-Nakacho

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Aug 2, 2019

The little curiosities of Monzen-Nakacho

by Kit Nagamura

From craft goods and antiques to unusual galettes and premium sake, Tokyo's Mon-Naka neighborhood has it all.

Rock gardens, ryokan and rafting in Tokyo's Mitake

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES May 31, 2019

Rock gardens, ryokan and rafting in Tokyo's Mitake

by Kit Nagamura

From the historic Kajikaen to kimono dyeing studios and the Gyokudo Art Museum, numerous institutions of traditional art and culture line the banks of the Tama River as it runs through Mitake.

Up high on a rickshaw, new views of old Asakusa

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Apr 5, 2019

Up high on a rickshaw, new views of old Asakusa

by Kit Nagamura

Although the streets of Asakusa are familiar stomping grounds for tourists and locals alike, a ride on a jinrikisha (rickshaw) can bring a refreshing new perspective to the historic area, and even reveal a secret spot or two.

Coffee connections in tranquil Togoshi

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Feb 1, 2019

Coffee connections in tranquil Togoshi

by Kit Nagamura

Togoshi's local businesses are quirky, wholesome and close-knit. But what truly brings this district together is the coffee shop that supplies them all with bespoke blends.

Exploring Jiyugaoka's venerable shopping arcade

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Jan 4, 2019

Exploring Jiyugaoka's venerable shopping arcade

by Kit Nagamura

Winter winds whistle as I exit Jiyugaoka Station in Tokyo's Meguro Ward, surrounded by a flock of boisterous high school students in black uniforms. Their joyous chatter as we walk into brilliant sunshine at the station's main exit reminds me that the station and ...

Taking a perch with the hip birds of Uguisudanicho

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Nov 30, 2018

Taking a perch with the hip birds of Uguisudanicho

by Kit Nagamura

One of two places in Tokyo named after valleys favored by the melodious uguisu (Japanese bush warbler), Uguisudanicho is a small neighborhood wedged between Daikanyama, Ebisu and Shibuya straddling the line between old-school businesses and gentrification.

Playing cat and mouse in the alleyways of Harajuku

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Nov 2, 2018

Playing cat and mouse in the alleyways of Harajuku

by Kit Nagamura

Although most people familiar with Tokyo's Harajuku area have explored — or at least heard of — the uber-trendy and fashion-focused Cat Street, the smaller and quieter road that runs above it is full of its own unique mishmash of history, food and fashion.

Banking on the riverside alleyways of Komagata

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Oct 5, 2018

Banking on the riverside alleyways of Komagata

by Kit Nagamura

Venerated establishments and new shops putting their own spin on traditional food and craft exist side by side in Tokyo's aquatic Komagata neighborhood.

Rocking the hot stuff in weathered Narihira

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Aug 3, 2018

Rocking the hot stuff in weathered Narihira

by Kit Nagamura

Although the Tokyo neighborhood of Narihira is slowly shifting toward a younger demographic, a postwar vibe still lingers in its back alleys and keeps its community close-knit.

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