Another day of subtropical sunshine slips to its lazy conclusion. As the light drains from the sky, illuminations trace the 2-kilometer length of the low-slung bridge that curves toward the Okinawa mainland.

It is a remarkable vista, one to store and treasure in your memory banks. But it is seriously rivaled by the meal that is unfolding on the table in front of you.

You are on the small island of Kouri, seated in the plush dining room of 6 Six, a restaurant with a small name but a reputation that is growing fast. The cuisine it serves is usually described as innovative French. It would be closer to the truth to call it one of a kind.