One of Tokyo’s most inventive ramen masters has made his move.

After more than a dozen years building up a powerful reputation and an ardent following among ramen heads — as hardcore noodle enthusiasts like to call themselves — Naohito Kuroki has finally found a worthy location for his ever-popular self-named ramenya.

Not that he has deserted the area where he made his name: Motenashi Kuroki reopened only a few minutes down the road, in the buzzy backstreets close to Asakusabashi Station. But this is more than just a change of address. For Kuroki, it represents a significant move upmarket.