Since opening two decades ago, Noma — the Copenhagen, Denmark, restaurant currently serving grilled reindeer heart on a bed of fresh pine, and saffron ice cream in a beeswax bowl — has transformed fine dining. A new global class of gastro tourists schedules first-class flights and entire vacations around the privilege of paying at least $500 per person for its multicourse tasting menu.

Noma has repeatedly topped lists of the world’s best restaurants, and its creator, Rene Redzepi, has been hailed as his era’s most brilliant and influential chef.

Nevertheless, Redzepi told The New York Times, the restaurant will close for regular service at the end of 2024.