Most diners will be familiar with Japanese shiso (Perilla frutescens var. crispa), whether on sashimi platters, as tempura or tightly rolled in a pork belly skewer at a yakitori joint. However, it’s just as delicious when added to drinks or desserts: As a member of the mint family, shiso’s bright, anise-like flavor has much in common with sister herbs such as basil and other mint varietals. It also pairs beautifully with lemon.
Inspired by a limeade recipe from Lindsay-Jean Hard’s “Cooking with Scraps,” this shiso and lemon syrup is a zero-waste way of wringing out one more use from leftover lemon rinds. Most simple syrups — a common addition to cocktails and drinks — consist of equal parts sugar and water heated together. Here, I skip the cooking and macerate shiso and lemon in sugar.
Sugar is hygroscopic, which means it’ll draw out the liquid (and flavor) from any plant material it’s in contact with. Don’t expect instant results. Maceration is a slow, hands-off process, as it takes time for water to leach out of the leaves and rinds into the sugar. But it’s worth the wait — the final syrup tastes like distilled sunshine. This technique will work with any tart or bitter citrus fruit, such as lime, shīkuwāsā or yuzu. Play around with quantities and see what you like.