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If I ate “fish and chips” every time a non-British person said those words to me when discussing British food, my arteries would be clogged and my heart would have given out long ago. Alternately, if I got one British pound every time someone gave me a scornful look on learning I am a food writer and British, I would be very rich.

While British cuisine is notorious for being dreadful — a reputation that is not entirely undeserved — critics have missed, or chosen to stubbornly ignore, the culture’s glorious culinary renaissance. Over the past couple of decades, the country has spawned countless celebrity chefs; “The Great British Bake Off” is now in its 11th season; and farmers and street food markets have boomed (pre-pandemic at least).

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