The eastern fringe of Nihonbashi feels like a ghost town on weekends, especially the Bakurocho and Iwamotocho neighborhoods. But here and there among the barren wholesale warehouses and empty office buildings are a few small oases where people can congregate for nourishment and community. The best of them all is Kitade Shokudo.

The name is misleading; it sounds like it could be an old-school diner serving lunchtime teishoku set meals. In fact it’s a taqueria, totally up to the minute, occupying a former incense store that’s been converted in the sweetest, funkiest way.

Outside, the first thing you see is the street-level blackboard-look sign urging you simply to “Eat Tacos!!” and “Tortillas Hechas a Mano” (“Handmade Tortillas”). The next is the wide-open window where you order your quesadillas and takeout tacos.