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It’s gyōza’s time. In the past, these tasty little pan-fried (or steamed, or deep-fried) dumplings were relegated to a subsidiary role. They were what you ordered as a snack to accompany your first, thirst-quenching flagon of beer while you decided what you wanted for the rest of your meal.

These days things are different. Whether steamed (sui-gyōza), pan-fried (yaki-gyōza) or deep-fried (age-gyōza), they are now topping the bill, sometimes even morphing into new, hybrid styles far from their roots in Chinese cuisine.

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