When news leaked through in September that the pioneering Delifucious had closed, it triggered consternation and disbelief. Was this really the end of the pier for the hip, anago-with-attitude crew of this cult fish burger stand?

Turns out that concern was premature. Delifucious has resurfaced inside Chaos Kitchen, the casual basement dining floor in the hulking new Shibuya Parco building. And it already feels like it could be a perfect fit. While it lacks the rough-and-ready retro charm of the old digs, the new location brings with it both cachet and a much larger footfall.

All the old menu favorites are present and correct. Kobujime (breaded, deep-fried, kelp-cured white-meat fish) and saikyo-yaki (grilled with miso marinade) burgers; the superlative kani-kurīmu korokke (creamed crab-meat croquette) with optional kani-miso (crab innards); and of course the classic tempura anago (conger eel) hot dog.

There are a few new items, notably a maguro katsu (tuna cutlet) burger, plus a number of salads and side dishes such as namero (fish tartare). Now if the team would only get in some better beer — the fresh grapefruit or lemon sours are great, though — and rethink their use of single-use plastic cups and straws.

Chaos Kitchen, Shibuya Parco B1F, Udagawacho 15-1, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-8377; 03-6809-0088; delifucious.com; open daily 11 a.m.- 11 p.m.; fishburgers from ¥900; side dishes from ¥300; nearest station Shibuya; nonsmoking; English menu; some English spoken; major credit cards accepted

In line with COVID-19 guidelines, the government is strongly requesting that residents and visitors exercise caution if they choose to visit bars, restaurants, music venues and other public spaces.

In a time of both misinformation and too much information, quality journalism is more crucial than ever.
By subscribing, you can help us get the story right.