I've spent the past two hours slogging up steep mountainside paths, through dense forest and past the remnants of Japanese colonial outposts, when I finally arrive at my destination: a narrow, 500-meter-long cliffside path at points no wider than about 90 centimeters — though it can feel a lot less — with only small, sporadic pieces of fencing standing between me and a 700-meter drop into the gorge below. This is Taiwan's Zhuilu Old Road.
Perched high above the Liwu River that cuts through Taroko National Park, you are rewarded with sweeping views of the gorge. Far below, miniature-looking vehicles make their way along the highway that runs through the park, and mountains linger in the distance, shrouded by fog. It is justifiably considered to be one of Taiwan's best hikes. Like me, you may find yourself tempted to grab hold of the rope attached to the cliff — one of the few concessions to safety — so as to get a better view of the vertigo-inducing drop into the canyon.
Hiking the Zhuilu Old Road (200 New Taiwan dollars for an adult; about ¥700) puts you in a somewhat exclusive club, with only 96 people on weekdays and 156 people on weekends and holidays allowed access. It is necessary to secure a permit, which can be applied for online (bit.ly/twoldroad), and the low number of spaces means it is advisable to apply as soon as possible — applications begin 30 days in advance. This is largely a straightforward process, but a potential sticking point is the need for a local emergency contact, which has to be a Taiwanese citizen or person with residency in the country. Your accommodation may be able to serve in this function, but it is not guaranteed and advisable to check before you book.