After all the holiday overindulgence, what better way to start a new year than with noodles? They're simple, wholesome, filling and, best of all, cheap. And none more so than the long, white, chunky, chewy wheat noodles known as Sanuki udon.

But wait, aren't noodles, especially udon, too prosaic to be really auspicious, too old-school or (whisper it) boring to set the tone for the next 12 months? Not necessarily. And certainly not at Men Chirashi.

This stylish new udonya lies on a narrow alley among the boutiques and hip streetwear emporiums of Harajuku, away from the bustle of Meiji-dori yet out of sight of the meandering tourists on Cat Street. Men Chirashi is bright and welcoming, but it's also — for the moment at least — a noodle joint by and for the locals and insiders.