Food & Drink | TOKYO FOOD FILE

Mimosa Ginza: New offshoot from a Shanghainese favorite

by Robbie Swinnerton

Contributing Writer

Farewell to Ginza’s iconic (albeit dated) Sony Building. Once extolled by gourmets for housing the Tokyo outpost of Maxim’s de Paris — at a time when few French restaurants or chefs had any interest in Japan — now all that’s left is a hip and well-curated hole in the ground. Welcome to Ginza Sony Park.

This high profile pop-up space, which runs until after the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, occupies the building’s four basement floors, and boasts a couple of big names. The venerable wagashi confectioner Toraya offers five kinds of kakigōri shaved ice, including a couple of boozy numbers featuring rum or limoncello. All include a big dollop of creamy-smooth koshi-an red bean jam.

On the very bottom level, Beer To Go serves a colorful selection of deli items, plus burgers and brisket, to pair with the eponymous suds from the Kirin subsidiary Spring Valley Brewery (plus a few guest taps).

But the most interesting outlet here is Mimosa Ginza. It’s the first spinoff by chef Toshiro Minami’s Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant near Omotesando. Instead of his usual modern Shanghainese cuisine, he has developed a line of excellent dim sum take-out items, including steamed buns, spring rolls, radish pie and superb little egg tarts. He also has an interesting range of drinks, including an amazing foamy pu-erh tea. Not to be missed.

Ginza Sony Park B1, Ginza 5-3-1, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061;; open 11 a.m.- 7 p.m. (closed Mon.); steamed buns ¥350; tea from ¥500; nearest stations Ginza, Yurakucho; nonsmoking; major cards accepted; Japanese menu; some English spoken

In line with the nationwide state of emergency declared on April 16, the government is strongly requesting that residents stay at home whenever possible and refrain from visiting bars, restaurants, music venues and other public spaces.
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