At Kimchi no Mizuno, staff regularly play a game with the tables, an ever-changing dance with the room, performed to get around the fact that the restaurant is noticeably small, with space for no more than half a dozen tables.

Despite the restaurant's size, there is usually a queue that stretches outside the door and beyond, especially at lunch. So to accommodate their devoted customers, staff separate and shuffle the tables around the room as each one is vacated. While there might not be room when you arrive, room will be made.

Mizuno is a family enterprise and three generations ferry dishes between the kitchen and the front of house. The restaurant has the easy familiarity of a family-run establishment and the end result is both simple and unfussy: The focus is on the food.