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When Sonoji arrived just over a year ago in the quiet, low-rise back streets of Ningyocho, it stirred up considerable interest. Primarily that was due to its obvious quality — but also because it stood out from the pack.

The restaurant’s specialty is tempura, a food associated with Tokyo ever since the city was known to the world as Edo. However, owner-chef Toshiyuki Suzuki is from out of town: To site his restaurant in one of the city’s most traditional neighborhoods was always going to cause a buzz.

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