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It’s 9 a.m. on Miyajima, the sacred island just a five-minute ferry ride from Hiroshima. Along the Omotesando shopping street, the restaurants and souvenir stores are opening for another day. The covered street resounds with the clatter of metal blinds being rolled up.

The gods still dwell on Miyajima, some folks say. It’s one of Japan’s “Top Three Beautiful Views” and home to the “floating” shrine of Itsukushima, a World Heritage Site. Yet for the people of Hiroshima, it’s the food that keeps them coming back.

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