It’s 9 a.m. on Miyajima, the sacred island just a five-minute ferry ride from Hiroshima. Along the Omotesando shopping street, the restaurants and souvenir stores are opening for another day. The covered street resounds with the clatter of metal blinds being rolled up.

The gods still dwell on Miyajima, some folks say. It’s one of Japan’s “Top Three Beautiful Views” and home to the “floating” shrine of Itsukushima, a World Heritage Site. Yet for the people of Hiroshima, it’s the food that keeps them coming back.

Unable to view this article?

This could be due to a conflict with your ad-blocking or security software.

Please add japantimes.co.jp and piano.io to your list of allowed sites.

If this does not resolve the issue or you are unable to add the domains to your allowlist, please see out this support page.

We humbly apologize for the inconvenience.

In a time of both misinformation and too much information, quality journalism is more crucial than ever.
By subscribing, you can help us get the story right.