After living in France for nearly a decade, Toru Matsushita returned to his hometown of Osaka and took up where he left off in the French capital. Before long he was settled back into preparing and serving soba.

On the surface it was a circuitous route back to Osaka: Matsushita first cut his teeth at Daruma in Hiroshima before transferring to Paris and working at Yen, a soba and Japanese food restaurant in the sixth arrondissement.

In 2015, he found his way home and opened his eponymous restaurant in a quiet enclave nearby the endless crowds swarming through Umeda.