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“This is the best sushi you’ll find in LA,” says a suavely dressed man to his date, as they swoon over a table laden with ersatz creations like “caterpillar roll” and “spider roll.” But just as they’re about to consummate their passion, the meal is interrupted by a trio of armed Japanese officials: the dreaded Sushi Police, staunch enforcers of culinary orthodoxy.

By the end of the opening episode of anime series “Sushi Police,” Los Angeles’ finest purveyor of bogus Japanese nosh has been reduced to rubble, and the integrity of Japan’s signature gastronomic export safely protected — for now.

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