The gourmet burger market in Tokyo is an increasingly crowded field. With so many new arrivals, from small, passionate independents to slick, well-funded international operations, it's hard for new places to stand out. One that has carved out a tiny but distinct niche is Henry's Burger, which opened late last year in Daikanyama.

At this spinoff from the very excellent Sumibiyakiniku Nakahara, the patties are all made with 100 percent wagyu beef — the same quality served at the parent restaurant — using no filler, extenders or binding agents. Unusually, the meat is chopped coarsely, giving a bite that is closer to a steak than a traditional, finely ground burger. Whether as a single patty (¥650) or double (¥900), they are dressed with cheese, tomato, lettuce and a rich, creamy dressing that's not a million miles away from Thousand Island dressing, and rest inside a bun that's among the lightest in town.

While the texture of the meat may not be to everyone's taste, the flavor is immense. And there can be no second-guessing the quality. There are very few burger joints of any size where, alongside the sodas, you can order pure orange juice, San Pellegrino or Chilean wine by the miniature bottle.