Try Gattenn if you’re looking for a more tranquil restaurant. Located near Nagoya Station, it takes its interior-design cues from traditional Shinto shrines, with a set of red torii gates, staff dressed as shrine workers and even a machine that dispenses omikuji (fortunes) for ¥100 a pop.

The food is standard izakaya (pub) fare, with tebasaki chicken wings (¥500), fried chicken (¥580), a selection of salads (¥180-¥480) and a few oddities, such as naan-bread pizza (¥780). The drinks menu is surprisingly extensive for such a small place, with a range of sake starting from ¥600, along with shōchū (distilled liquor), whisky and spirits. A standard beer will set you back ¥480 or, for the same price, you can try one of their cocktails, which are surprisingly good.

The staff are friendly and the atmosphere lively, but the theme is not so intrusive that you can’t ignore it and just concentrate on enjoying your meal.

On your way out a server will grab a ceremonial staff lined with bells, wave it grandly in your general direction while giving you a deep bow and a blessing for the road. It may not be the experience of lodging in a real shrine and enjoying authentic shōjin ryōri (Buddhist cuisine), but it is far more affordable.

In line with COVID-19 guidelines, the government is strongly requesting that residents and visitors exercise caution if they choose to visit bars, restaurants, music venues and other public spaces.

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