Restaurants don't get much more traditional-looking than Tamai — not in Tokyo, anyway. Squeezed in between the banal office architecture of its neighbors, this old-school grilled-eel specialist bears witness to a kinder, gentler time when the city was all low-rise residences and shops, with Nihonbashi as its thriving, commercial heart.
Appearances can be deceptive. Tamai's handsome, two-story, timber building may have stood here for more than seven decades, but the restaurant itself is a brash newcomer. It was founded just 10 years ago, taking over the atmospheric premises of a former sake merchant.
Tamai also veers from tradition when it comes to its specialty. The type of eel it serves is anago (a type of conger or sea eel), rather than the more usual unagi (freshwater eel). In the old days, anago was more of a bit-part fish, commonly batter-fried at tempura restaurants or lightly simmered and served as sushi. Rarely is it elevated to the starring act on a menu, as it is here.