Inoda is one of Kyoto’s long-established coffee chains, and has several outposts dotted around the city, but the cafe and shop on Sanjo Street is a treat, with its space to seat ratio in the region of 10 to 1.

It’s all quite old-world and formal, judging by the uniforms of the serving staff. But it’s also friendly, the no-smoking area looks out onto Sanjo — one of the city’s more genteel streets. However, if you can handle the smoke, head toward the back counter.

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