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Most chefs prefer to let their food do the talking. If they have anything else to say, it goes into a cookbook. But for Rene Redzepi there is far too much to be discussed — above and beyond the brilliant, inventive dishes he serves at his restaurant, Noma, in Copenhagen and (temporarily) in Tokyo.

So, he came up with the idea of holding an annual gathering where he and his contemporaries could come together to share ideas and concerns relating to the all-encompassing subject of food. Now four years old, the MAD symposium draws chefs young and old from around the world to hear presentations by their peers, along with a supporting cast of farmers, activists, academics, sea urchin gatherers, climate scientists and more.

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