Okuman is all about the fish: head, bones, fins and tail. And eyes and scales, and entrails too — that’s what you get at Okuman.

Apologies, I have been overwhelmed by kids’ songs lately. It was after eight on a weeknight when we dropped by Okuman and there wasn’t a child in sight, possibly because it’s a smoky, rough-and-ready kind of joint. That’s not to say the service and hospitality aren’t up to Japanese standards. They are. The master at the Okuman restaurant in Nakazakicho, a short walk northeast of Umeda, is about the hardest-working, most ceaselessly hospitable cook/waiter/boss I have seen in action in a while.

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