Genre splicing continued to be the central theme of menswear at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo this season, but a shared focus on gentrified heritage styles made for a surprisingly unified whole that was in line with trends on the international stage.
Takeshi Osumi's post-Phenomenon brand, Mr Gentleman, produced by Yoshii Yuichi of cult select shop The Contemporary Fix, took the lead with a strong outing that fused "British gent style" with hip-hop club culture, remixing trenchcoats into wide legged jumpsuits and adding down jacket panels into elegant peacoats in the process.
Likewise, Tokyo-based Korean designer Bajowoo's punk roots were present at his second ever show for his 99%is brand. Leather-clad models pounded a studded runway under a giant anarchy sign, and on closer inspection there were riffs on formal tuxedos and cravats in abundance. The contrast inherent between the forces of anarchy and establishment fashion was further hammered home by 99%is' collaboration with British heritage brand Mackintosh, which materialized on the catwalk in a series of clean, studded and leather panelled trenchcoats that stood in stark relief against grimy spiked headpieces styled exclusively for the show by renowned hair artist Katsuya Kamo.