A breeze ruffles the surface of the pool next to my table. A canvas parasol stirs above my head. I sink back into my rattan throne, a cool microbrew in my hand. On a hot summer evening in the center of Tokyo, it really doesn't get much better than an outside table at Cicada.

It's been eight months since Tokyo's favorite Mediterranean restaurant left its old location, between Hiroo and Nishi-Azabu, and made the short move over to Omotesando. From the get-go it has been hugely popular. But even so, Cicada has taken a while to really settle down and grow into its expansive new premises.

That's understandable. After close to 10 years, Cicada was so well embedded in its old site — so comfortable in its own skin, you might say — that any move was going to be a major upheaval.