Nowhere does tonkatsu like Tonki. Of all the restaurants in Tokyo that serve those ever-popular cutlets of breaded, deep-fried pork — and they number in their thousands — nowhere stands out quite the way Tonki does.

To its legions of fans, it is an all-time classic. Others say it’s an old-fashioned relic, and don’t see what the fuss is about. But on whichever side of that divide you stand, there’s no denying that after more than seven decades in business, Tonki is a veritable institution.

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