Charcoal-grilled fish, lots of fresh seafood and seasonal produce, rice at least once a day and no fussy seasonings or sauces: Portuguese cuisine has so many points of overlap with Japan's, it's a wonder that it hasn't caught on here more widely.
One major reason is that Portuguese cooking is at its best when it's given the fewest fancy affectations. Try to doll it up with haute cuisine airs and graces (and prices to match) and it loses its appetizing, earthy appeal. There's little chance of that happening at Cristiano's.
This buzzy little backstreet restaurant, which opened last December close to Yoyogi-Koen Station, keeps everything nicely unpretentious. It's cheerful and welcoming, as easygoing and affordable as a neighborhood bistro, though much better looking than most. And, more importantly, the food is put together with skill, care and an obvious respect for Portugal and its cuisine.