The luxury market is taking a beating; world-famous German minimalist fashion designer Jil Sander is working with Uniqlo, H&M are taking over Tokyo high streets and Number (N)ine, a top Japanese menswear label, has gone out of business.

It would be fair to say that the fashion industry is in a state of flux.

What was interesting, then, about this season's Tokyo menswear collections was how the participating labels would approach this crisis — play safe or live it up like it's your last-ever champagne- quaffing party.