Chef Marcus Samuelsson is known in New York City for his highly acclaimed Aquavit restaurant, which has been serving top-level contemporary Swedish cuisine for more than 20 years. We are happy to report that his first venture in Japan, which opened in Tokyo's Gaienmae neighborhood in early October, measures up to the same impressive standard.

The cooking is superb — fresh, inspired and provocative. And Aquavit's modern Scandinavian outlook adds a welcome note of diversity to Tokyo's French- and Italian-dominated international restaurant scene. The dining room is bright and energetic, hung with artwork and decorated in a fusion of Japanese and Scandinavian styles. The design is sleek, but warmed by homey touches such as the antique pepper mills on the tables and the grove of newly planted trees in the pocket garden in back.

One of the unique charms of Aquavit New York has been re-created here — a large menu of homemade aquavits, in surprising flavors such as horseradish, and pear, vanilla and black pepper. If you're after even more exotic thrills, you can try offbeat aquavit-based cocktails such as the Aquapolitan or the Spicy Mango Martini.