"A gin and tonic is an entry-level drink," said the ladyfriend recently. It's easy to understand, she said, easy to drink. Like Kahlua milks and Moscow mules. A drink for people who haven't graduated to whiskeys or rickeys.

But enough of her snobbery. The gin and tonic is one of the most popular drinks in the world; it's got the classic bitter-sweet combination of a great cocktail; and though the recipe is manifest in the drink's name, crafting a perfect one is harder than you think.

You'll need a glass: a highball, preferably chilled. And that's as far as Tokyo's top bartenders can agree.