Azabu Juban is a short stroll down the hill from both the new Roppongi Hills complex and Roppongi crossing. But whereas the new Mori complex has given Roppongi a bump up in the sophistication stakes, it merely adds to what is already on offer in Azabu Juban, which has long been the neighborhood of choice for more mature-minded inner-city habitues.

Take Cafe Life, for example. Like many establishments in the area it has a long history, but even under present management, it has been enjoying favor among the denizens of Azabu Juban for almost three years -- by day as a lunch and coffee spot and by night as a restaurant and bar. Even on a midweek night deluged with rain, you will usually find it full till it closes at 4 a.m.

From the street it looks deceptively small, but its secret weapon is a spacious second-floor lounge. Regulars, who drift in alone or in pairs, tend to sit downstairs either at the bar (which accommodates six) or at one of four tables (which accommodate eight). The lunch and dinner crowd and larger groups tend to head upstairs, which seats around two dozen at an assortment of armchairs and couches pulled in at tables.