Tokyo is not big on breakfast. Granted, there's no shortage of places to grab a sandwich or a Danish with your long latte mochacino. A kissaten "morning set" should furnish a boiled egg with a slab of faintly browned igirsu-pan (they blame white bread on the English, here). And a family restaurant can rustle up defrosted pancakes around the clock. But if it's quality, cooked fare you're after first thing in the day, just about the only options up until now have been the dining rooms of the larger hotels.

But for early risers in Yoyogi, things are different. A brief, early-morning stroll from the rear entrance of Yoyogi Park brings you to the new and very stylish Tarlum. With its glass-fronted architecture, stylish furnishings and strange name, you might take it for a chic coffee shop. But here you get much more than just a kissaten "morning set" -- with absolutely no sight of miso soup, natto or seaweed.

Settle back in one of their armchairs, unfurl your Japan Times (not provided, unfortunately) and order up one of their substantial cooked breakfasts. How does scrambled egg sound, served with bacon, a small side salad, some bread or a croissant, plus juice, coffee or tea? It's yours for 850 yen. Or would you prefer an omelet -- plain, cheese or filled with flakes of pink salmon (the latter for 1,000 yen)? For those with lighter appetites they offer French toast (700 yen) or a range of Danish pastries to have with your mocha or Earl Grey.