Tokyo is not big on breakfast. Granted, there’s no shortage of places to grab a sandwich or a Danish with your long latte mochacino. A kissaten “morning set” should furnish a boiled egg with a slab of faintly browned igirsu-pan (they blame white bread on the English, here). And a family restaurant can rustle up defrosted pancakes around the clock. But if it’s quality, cooked fare you’re after first thing in the day, just about the only options up until now have been the dining rooms of the larger hotels.

But for early risers in Yoyogi, things are different. A brief, early-morning stroll from the rear entrance of Yoyogi Park brings you to the new and very stylish Tarlum. With its glass-fronted architecture, stylish furnishings and strange name, you might take it for a chic coffee shop. But here you get much more than just a kissaten “morning set” — with absolutely no sight of miso soup, natto or seaweed.

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