Helmsdale is not so much a pub as a shrine to the "water of life," known to the ancient Gaelic peoples as uisge beatha and to their modern-day descendants as whisky. Almost every inch of space is devoted to it, from the groaning shelves of classic single malts arrayed behind the counter to the empty whisky cartons that almost totally obscure the window.

This cozy little hideaway, up on the second floor of an unremarkable building near the Red Cross Hospital, boasts one of the best collections of rare whiskies in Tokyo. They list 300 single malts on their special drinks menu, some as old as 30 years and with prices of up to 10,000 yen a shot.

Yet there's nothing snobbish or cliquey about Helmsdale. They are no less welcoming if you just want to cradle a pint at the bar and watch the constant reruns of English football games on the flickering (but muted) television above the bar. Lovers of unusual bottled beers will be happy to make the acquaintance of Dark Island and Black Cuillin, two intense, flavorful ales from small-scale breweries on Orkney and Skye respectively.