Tachinomiya hold a special position among drinking establishments. There is something about standing while drinking that puts a whole new spin on the sake experience. What such places lack in serenity they more than make up for in value and fun.

Naturally, most tachinomiya (stand-up bars) are low-budget affairs. The whole point is to keep things cheap. Most of them serve low-budget sake as well, and rarely is more than one type available -- much less anything above bottom-shelf.

But there are exceptions. Several, in fact, and Marutoku is one of the most recommendable of these anomalies. Situated just minutes from the West Exit of Shinjuku Station, Marutoku is very local: a steady stream of regulars peppered with a few hapless souls who wander in for the first time.