Wine and the arts belong together. In cafes from Vienna to New York, there's a tradition of poets, painters, composers and their cronies huddling around tables, where carafes of wine inspire debate, revolutions and love affairs. The food is simple, and the wines are rarely expensive. Yet the conversation, the camaraderie and the music seem to release an intensity of flavors and aromas.

Typically, the experience of drinking wine in Tokyo cafes is antiseptic by comparison. The fussy, small goblet of house wine (either over-chilled or stewed) is delivered on a silver tray. Voices are hushed. Ankles are crossed. Art is nowhere in sight; exuberant discussion would sound rude.

In recent times, two Tokyo cafes -- Ben's Cafe and the Pink Cow -- have distinguished themselves as alternatives. Both cultivate local arts communities and have robust event calendars with wine tastings. In fact, their casual, informative wine evenings are among Tokyo's best bargains.