For many years, California Zinfandel was the secret tip among red-wine fanatics who weren't obsessed with pedigree. The grape varietal earned its reputation for powerful, concentrated reds that sold for a fraction of the price of a decent Cabernet Sauvignon.
Mystery surrounds Zinfandel's viticultural identity. One theory traced its origin to a Croatian varietal called Plavac Mali. Research now suggests they are closely related but not the same. In 1994, DNA fingerprinting showed that Zinfandel is identical to Primitivo, a grape growing in Apulia, Italy. Yet historical records indicate that Zin's California presence preceded the first documented planting of Italian Primitivo.
Numerous coveted, old-vine Zinfandel parcels are still owned by grape-grower families with surnames such as Sangiacomo, Tedeschi, Luvisi and Martini.