The ideal picnic wine must meet several criteria. Since a throbbing hangover can ruin an afternoon, the wine should be low in alcohol. On a warm day, it is best to avoid heavy red wines; harsh tannins can leave the mouth feeling parched. Finally, the wine should convey a sense of celebration. It is hard to resist a well-chilled wine that catches the sunlight in its bubbles.

Moscato d'Asti ranks high among our picnic favorites. On a recent trip to Italy, we arrived mid-afternoon at a small hotel on Lake Como. It was too late for lunch and too early for dinner. The innkeeper offered to make sandwiches. Crusty bread with ham and a plate of fruit were delivered with a bottle of cold Moscato d'Asti. We sat on the lawn overlooking the lake, and sipped the fragrant wine.

The simple meal was rendered festive by the wine. We decided then that Moscato d'Asti is the perfect sipper for spring picnics or brunch.