Sometimes the craving strikes and second-best just won’t do.

And when the object of desire is pizza, then forget about chains like To the Herbs; good old Shakey’s certainly doesn’t make the grade; and don’t even think about one of those delivery jobs. With all due respect to Chicago and all other Italian enclaves spread across America, what we want is real Neapolitan pizza — the way Hisayoshi Majima makes it.

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