Sometimes the craving strikes and second-best just won't do.

And when the object of desire is pizza, then forget about chains like To the Herbs; good old Shakey's certainly doesn't make the grade; and don't even think about one of those delivery jobs. With all due respect to Chicago and all other Italian enclaves spread across America, what we want is real Neapolitan pizza -- the way Hisayoshi Majima makes it.

You see, he's paid his dues. Meiji diplomats headed to Europe to discover things like diets and democracy. More recently, a flood of wannabe chefs and sommeliers have been setting off to Paris and Lyon, Bourgogne and Bordeaux to sit at the feet of the high priests of haute cuisine and oenology. In just the same way, Majima set off to the narrow alleys of Napoli to crack the secrets of the finest pizza in the world. He returned to Japan a full-fledged pizzaiolo.